**I must state upfront, that these are all my own opinions and in no way reflect those of my good lady wife -- who is a pioneer, traveller par excellence and woman of exquisite taste. She loves the place BTW.
If you're a consumer of British media - everything from weekend broadsheet supplements, lifestyle, fashion and travel magazines - you can't have missed gushing photo-spread feature after fawning photo-spread feature PR-ing this noxious little outpost in deepest Morocco. For the last four or five years it's been building a reputation as *the* place to go if you crave easy-to-get-to poverty, street hassle, sickness and tourist crap.
We went there last week and it was poo.
It has no architectural merit. It's not picturesque. It's not even quirky. There is seemingly no point to it.
Why would one go? It's dirty. Smelly. Overcrowded. Intimidating. Irritating. Dangerous.
I mean, how many brightly coloured slippers can a person reasonably have? Who needs a tatty carpet, lantern, bowl, necklace, lamp, shawl, drape, belt, bag, photo frame, rug, tagine pot, dervish knife or sword, tribal mask, joss stick, joss stick holder, rucksack, plate, saucer, vial, soap dish, soap, oil, incense…
All this -- and lots of it -- is available for haggle at the infamous souks.
But buyer beware. Souks are narrow, poorly lit, overcrowded hellholes where you're overtaken by the deafening bids of shopkeepers on all sides pimping their shoddy wares. That and all the random people -- milling tourists; just looking tourists; on the trader's line tourists; being reeled-in tourists; and poor, resigned-to-the-rip-off tourists. Not to mention the locals -- flitting hither and thither; pulling carts; leading over laden, broken donkeys; panhandlers; beggars; chancers and thieves. Oh, and scooters. Thousands of then. Toot toot toot. With their collective exhaust, the place smells like a lawnmower convention held in a sewer.
And then there's the food. Tagine. Big wow. It's not a culinary epiphany, it's a pot. Into which, the Moroccans put principally chicken or lamb. That's it -- lamb stew. Intriguing n'est pas? Stand down Heston, it's not the discovery of the century..
I'm being unfair, of course. Very unfair.
But the problem is -- I got food (or water) poisoning mid-way through the visit and have carried it for eight days now. The experience (I'll spare you) does, ehem, colour the experience. I lost half a stone (~3 kilos) as indication of the voracity of the viral or bacterial infection of my guts.
All this is most unfortunate, as I did manage to ape those Conde Nast Traveller-type shutterbugs with some damn fine pics taken on the iPhone's meagre camera, see below.
Anyway, that's me done with the exotic. In future, I'm not straying far from the tried and tested golf resort in southern Spain.
"I'm Caliban-I-Am I-Am,**Expression of jaundiced views is a raison d'etre here. But editorial wilfulness can sometimes get me in trouble Chez S.
I'm Caliban-I-Am I-Am."
Random alley
Random alley
Door -- down a random alley
The Square
The Square
Donkey looking very forlorn and forlornly, ehem, very sad
A souk -- shudder to think..
Ceiling of our fancy room in the Rihad
Courtyard in Rihad
Pool and private courtyard in suite No.1 in Palmerie
Blossom In pool, suite No.1
Flower at our 2nd suite in the palmerie
The pool, suite No.2 -- a Hockney-esque study, innit
Wall of 2nd suite in the Palmerie -- A shadow play(ish and -esque;-)
Wall in suite No.2 courtyard in Palmerie ..Isn't the blue divine?
Cactus against [magnificently blue] wall of Palmerie suite No.2
Le posh hotel thingie
Graffiti -- Gooners get everywhere ..and probably pissed up the wall too
Airport -- brilliant architecture and a vitally important and welcome route home!
Airport -- another view. Quite magnificent
